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Destinations · Europe · hungary · Budapest · Where to eat ·

Onyx

Author: Anothertravelguide.com0 COMMENTS

Onyx

Of cuisine, as in France, one could talk a lot and talk forever. Hungarian culinary traditions, rich in meat (the most famous dish being goulash, of course) and generous portions of sour cream, is quite heavy and loaded with calories. After lunch in Budapest, you may not be ready for heroic acts and be inclined to recline instead. As with French cooking, the roots of the tradition are in the countryside. Hungarian cuisine was "Europeanized" only toward the end of the nineteenth century, when the luxury hotels in Pest began to import chefs from Paris and other culinary capitals across Europe. Two decades before the First World War was the apogee of Budapest's restaurants. The city was then in flower - free, creative, democratic and inexpensive. To a degree, this atmosphere has begun to return. Two of Budapest's restaurants have gotten Michelin stars of late. The first was Costes, in the spring of 2010. Among locals, however, this has caused controversy - about what the star really means and whether it endures in actuality. The debates were especially sharp because the Portuguese chef who created the menu at Costes departed not long after the star was given. He's back now, but people from Budapest suspect that the star has tin edges. The other restaurant to get a star is called Onyx. Unlike Costes, the kitchen at Onyx is run by Hungarian chefs. The location, too, is stellar - it's in the same place as the legendary nineteenth-century Cafe Gerbeaud. The interior seems kitschy at first, overbearingly Neo-Baroque. The food, however, is wondrous. There are dishes that would delight any gourmet, for example a lightly marinated smoked tuna with mushrooms and fruit jelly. As in any restaurant lauded by Michelin, the prices here are far higher than elsewhere. The clientele is mostly foreign, with many a diplomat savouring the cuisine.

Vorosmarty ter 7 - 8
www.onyxrestaurant.hu

 

08/2011

 

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