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Destinations · Europe · poland · Warsaw · Essence ·

Warsaw is hardly the city to fall in love with from the first glance. Yet, like any other strong and unusual personality, it charms you as soon as you have a chance to get to know it. And it's better not to start with the Old Town, which is, in fact, pretty "new". Most of the city was destroyed during WWII, including the Royal Palace. What we see today is a remake, completed only in 1988. It is mostly tourists who can be seen exploring the old town as the locals almost never go there without a particular reason. A more authentic symbol of the city is perhaps the Palace of Culture and Science - a fine example of the Stalin-era architecture, built in 1955. Or Piłsudski Square, where the Pope John Paul II held his historic mass in 1999. A huge white cross is set up at the spot now; there are almost always flowers at its foot. The Metropolitan Office Building, designed by Norman Foster (2003) and sited not far off, is one of the brightest features of the contemporary Warsaw. Its interior courtyard with its splashing fountain is a favourite relaxation spot in summer.
However, to get a genuine taste of the city, you have to immerse yourself into its very depths. Dare tread some untraditional tracks. Explore the suburbs and courtyards, climb to the top floors and go into the basements; visit the former industrial areas with walls covered in graffiti. One of the current creative centres of the city, the Praga district, is a former working class area with a rather criminally tinged reputation in the past. Unpolished and authentic, it now houses many projects of alternative culture - art galleries, theatres, bizarre shops and colourful cafes. A must-visit destination for style and design lovers is a former lace factory at 5/7 Burakowska Street, a stone's throw from the famous Powazki Cemetery. It boasts the best wine bar/shop in the city, perfumeries and interior design concept stores. The Warsaw University Library is likewise a symbolic destination. Due to its green façade, it seems like a living wonder on a grey winter day. It offers not only great contents but also a beautiful rooftop garden, open from April to October - one of the most favoured spots of the city. Lately, another new cultural project - the Nowy Wspanialy Swiat multi-medial cultural centre - opened its doors in Warsaw, initiated by Poland's left-wing circle of intellectuals and activists Krytyka Polityczna. Its first-floor café is open late in the night; it has become a cult spot of the city from day one. In Warsaw, you can experience the joy of exploration and discovery almost on every step, and that's what constitutes the charm and magic of the city!

 

^{Posted February, 2010}

 

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