Author: Anothertravelguide.com
- BY ALL MEANS DO VISIT GUR-E AMIR or TIMUR'S MAUSOLEUM. Gur-e Amir, the final resting place of Timur, two of his sons, grandsons and his teacher, is one of the most legendary places in the city. Richly adorned with onyx, it is literally shockingly resplendent. The real mortal remains of the great conqueror are housed in the basement; visiting the crypt used to be permitted (for a separate admission fee); some people are even rumoured to have spent the night there, inspired by a legend claiming that sleeping by the tomb of the great warrior will bring victory in ordinary everyday battles as well; extravagant escapades of the sort are strictly forbidden today (there are always exceptions to the rule). The mausoleum is made even more intriguing by the following tale: in 1941 the sarcophagus with Timur's mortal remains was taken to Moscow; the Russian anthropologist Mikhail Gerasimov opened it to reveal an inscription: „Anyone who opens this will be haunted by an enemy even worse than me." Said episode is claimed to have happened a day before 22 June 1941 when Hitler attacked the Soviet Union. In 1942 on Stalin's request Timur was brought back to Samarkand in a special train, and the course of World War II events turned in favour of the Soviet Union...
Whatever the truth, Timur's Mausoluem is at its imposing best late at night. If you are lucky enough, you may just get the keeper to let you in. The magnificent complex is then revealed to its full splendour. The silence, occasionally interrupted only by the swish of pigeons' wings, seems almost tangible.
- REGISTAN. Even if you are suffering from a certain overdose of Islamic architecture during your stay in Uzbekistan, Registan will not leave you indifferent. There is no doubt that it is one of the most precious gems of Islamic architecture in the whole region and should be explored and admired in all its magnificence. It has to be said, however, that during the peak of the tourist season the place is somewhat taken over by the circus of the local legally-illegal trade. The whole shebang, running practically 24/7, is almost equally exciting to watch. If you drive up some time around 10 pm, don't be surprised to find Registan almost completely hidden under the cover of darkness - unlike the beautifully lit-up Gur-e Amir. The reason is not a misplaced and overzealous energy-saving effort. As a militia man explains to a group of French tourists, the light could, of course, be switched on... except the pleasure would cost each of them five euros. The transaction duly takes place and the effect is truly fabulous. The premises of Registan often host all sorts of festivals and events, and, when properly lit-up, the ensemble seems to possess an almost magical quality. While the French tourists are busy ooh-ing and aah-ing, the next bus drives up, and lights are quickly switched off. Who are they to be allowed to enjoy the sight for free? And so the merry-go-round of the nice little business goes on...
You can also try to watch the sunset or climb one of the minarets conservation and renovation works are still in progress. Admittedly, the pleasure is not a great deal more than simply walking up the steep steps, avoiding the construction wires, only to stick your head out at the top and, leaning on the dusty wall, admire the indisputably beautiful panorama...
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Keywords: Samarkand, Uzbekistan