Mandari, the latest project by the 14-strong M-Group restaurant chain, opened late last year. The M-Group newcomer offers a menu featuring 'Georgian Fusion' - a lighter and healthier version of the traditional Georgian kitchen. You will notice here that the classical bouquet of Georgian flavours encounters global cuisines and contemporary gastronomy. To illustrate the point, let's take Mandari's special brand of 'sushi': its actually cucumber, onions and fresh coriander wrapped in a slice of the local suluguni cheese. Or the khinkali dumplings, each the size of half an apple: while the featured ingredients and method of preparation are quite traditional, the way they are served will remind you of a dim sum meal at a Chinese restaurant. Other outstanding dishes served at Mandari include their beef, slow-cooked in Saperavi wine with pearl onions and beans, as well as Black Sea fish, fried in black sesame seeds and complemented by a special honey-like pomegranate sauce. The chicken broth with milk, lime, fresh coriander and mint is fabulous: although a touch of Thai influence is obvious, all of the ingredients, including the herbs, are native to Georgia. The decor features certain references to the 19th-century salons of the Tergdaleulebi Georgian intelligentsia movement; however, the Georgian-French designer Jaba Diasamidze has managed to create an unobtrusive and genuinely stylish contemporary fusion-style environment.
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