If gastronomical pleasures are of interest but sitting properly in a formal setting with white tablecloths is not, explore the legendary tapas (and pintxos) bars. The tapas ritual calls for eating at the bar whilst standing, limiting your choices of the delectable offerings to a couple so that you can wander to another bar and then yet another... Taberna el Rincon de Goya is a good choice in the Salamanca district, for instance, hidden away in the cellar so that only those in the know can find it. The interior is simple and colourful, with a tile floor and bar, bare brick walls, wooden tables and a mosaic of a country scene done in blue tiles.
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