Essence, Yalta
Author: Anothertravelguide.com
Yalta is the most renowned resort city on the Crimean coast or the "Russian Riviera", as it was dubbed in the beginning of the 20ies century, before the Revolution. A good old Soviet-time trolleybus connects Yalta and Simferopol, a route having been opened already in 1961. Nevertheless, a weatherworn vehicle, like a brisk old-ager, is not about to retire. An 86 km trip resembles a colorful reel - a bit nostalgic for those who have spent their childhood in the socialism era, yet undeniable exotic for western tourists. Old Zhiguli, puffing out black smoke, now are outrun by chic Mercedeses, ignoring any traffic laws. Their license plates, instead of numbers, often bear words Генерал (General), Пляж (Beach), "Ялтa" (Yalta), etc. Huge posters are scattered along the roadside, promoting new and new monstrous ferroconcrete blockhouse projects. Mushrooming one after another, each new one slightly higher then the previous, they offer much desired seascape living space. Wild capitalism is taking turns with Soviet relics, some of them still flourishing. Here and there, a Zhiguli pulls at the roadside and an agent of some private „hotel" offers apartments, accommodations or villas. Browse a brochure right there on a hood and make your choice!
Yalta was first mentioned by historians in the 12th century, but the development of the southern coast of the Crimea into a resort area was spurred by the Count M.S. Vorontsov, appointed in 1823 the Governor-General of the region. Sheltered from sharp winds by 1000 m high mountains, Yalta distinguishes with a very mild and warm climate. Supplemented with sea salts and pine tree aroma, it prides in healing qualities acknowledged already in the Tsar's time, especially being recommended to cure lung diseases. The first sanatorium was built there in 1897, while its seafront promenade, a social scene of any resort city, dates back to the rule of Alexander III. It was widened during the Soviet time, obtaining a landmark of the time in the shape of Lenin monument, placed at the end of it. It is still there, but times change and another landmark - McDonalds, now stands opposite to it. A stroll along the promenade is like a peculiar motion picture - old and new Yalta comes together, creating almost kaleidoscopic effect. Before the Russian revolution it was an aristocratic resort, favored by the Tsar and his family. In 1920, however, the Soviet power resolved that working people deserve benefits of the Crimea's healing qualities, and the former palaces were transformed into sanatoriums.
Some ladies, parading the promenade in their Sunday's best, look much like consumer services ex-employees - high, backcombed hairdos, full make-up, fancy high-heels and golden glittering frocks. One hand clasps a glistening purse, while another hangs onto an elbow of their companion, never lacking dark glasses... Among others, muscled citizens swagger in sweatpants (favorite brand appears to be adidas), acting as if they own the whole place. There are dog owners, who seem to compete whose canine friend is bigger and more impressive. Long-legged girls in tight-fitting D&G jeans, tiny tops and high-heels...And punks and rockers, strumming some Russian hits at the beachside. A huge supermarket exposes half-empty shelves, with just some sausages and few other primary products lying there. While at the same time, a rapid renovation of old, pre-revolution buildings takes place, and new luxury shops open their doors. Yalta boasts in its own Colette, offering Prada, Cavalli and other brands, although it has nothing to do with Parisian Colette. Walking along the promenade, you will receive numerous offers to take a boat trip or to have your portrait drawn then and there. And a woman's voice in the background yells in a megaphone over and over again about a boat, leaving for the Swallow's Nest Castle, a symbol of the Crimean Coast...
A true reason for travelling to Yalta, however, is not a post-Soviet exoticness or sun baths on its stony and quite littered beaches. It's rather the unique nature of the Southern Crimea, still wild and so wonderfully authentic, and its small coastal and mountain villages, possessing the greatest value of all - a sincerity and genuine kindness of their people. Its roads, guarded by slender cypresses and its parks and gardens, created already in the Tsars time, and carefully tended to this day. Yalta itself being just a stopover on your way to the Crimean gems - Bakhchisarai, Sudak, Feodosia and Kerch...
Keywords: Yalta, Ukraine
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Una Meistere and Andrejs Žagars