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Insider's view · Asia · japan · Tokyo

Insider: Tengyo Kura

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Insider: Tengyo Kura

Tengyo Kura is a communication artist and a worldwide traveler - a vagabond, as calls himself. He uses his skills of a pedagogue and creates thereby multidisciplinary links among people of different nationalities.
Tengyo loves to explore every new place that he visits and he also willingly reveals the most favorite and frequented spots of his native Tokyo, or, to be more precise, the easternmost area of the Japanese capital.

I grew up in east Tokyo. To have a better idea, you have to take a look at the geographical contour of the city - it is a long and narrow stretch of land. As for administrative division, it's called a prefecture in Japan. The entire urban life of Tokyo concentrates in its eastern part, while in its western neighborhoods you can feel like in the lap of verdant nature. Can you imagine that? It's a wonderful area with rivers and green valleys, encircled by mountains and forests. On the other hand, talking about Tokyo as a metropolis, we mostly have in mind its eastern territory bordering with the Pacific Ocean. Of course, it's also a result of how it has developed historically because lots of activity has always taken place in the bay.

Tokyo became the capital only when the county opened its doors to the world, which happened in the second part of the 19th century. Before that, Tokyo was known by the name Edo and was just a small village. It was until Tokugawa Ieyasu made it his base in 1590 but rapid growth started only when he became a shogun.

The shogun was a military leader and a head of samurai army. Every Japanese warrior had an ambition to become a shogun one day, but this absolute power was always bestowed only upon one chosen man. The shogun built his castle in Edo thus making it the actual capital city. During the middle ages it was the most densely populated area in Japan, as for its number of population surpassing many large western European cities of that time.

Japan was largely isolated from the rest of the world in those days, and it government strived to develop it as an independent and highly self-sufficient country. If any cultural or economic exchange with other countries did happen, there was only one strictly determined place where foreign delegates were allowed to stay and it was one of Japanese islands. Yet there was never scarcity of foreigners on this island, and the government was even sending some prostitutes over there - just in case, so to say.

With time passing, the world's interest in Japan was only increasing and the government's nervousness was growing, too. Why it was so? Japanese military equipment of that time was rather old-fashioned and samurai swords in no way could match up with western armament. In case of any military conflict, Japan would have found itself in dire trouble, and in order to avoid that, the government resolved to end its isolation policy and to open up the country to outer world.
The samurai era was followed by a more democratic system bringing about westernization. It affected also its military sphere and soon Japan was among the most military powerful countries of the world. It was also time of Japanese territorial expansion in Asia. The WWII, however, entered its adjustments, leaving Japan the way we are familiar with it now.

Ever since those times the coastal Tokyo area has preserved its central status, although there are lots of people who prefer western part. They live in private houses and travel one or two hours to their workplace in the center of Tokyo every day. East Tokyo is very expensive to live there, also too dynamic and not very suitable for children.

I grew up in the easternmost area of east Tokyo - Ueno, Taito-ku (administrative areas in Tokyo are known as "ku" in Japanese). Taito is known for safeguarding traditional Japanese culture and values and therefore is quite different from stereotypical images of Tokyo revealed in movies and mass media. Usually they show only the famous Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku and Roppongi areas that are swarming with life.

In Yanaka, one of the most cultural areas of Taito-ku, one can observe the traditional Japanese lifestyle, historic neighborhoods where kids can play in the streets, market squares and traditional architecture. It has also very rich cultural life and there are many temples and museums situated in its parks. Today Yanaka with its quiet charm is becoming increasingly popular among city guests as well.

There are several great cafés in Taito that are set in traditional houses with authenticity presented and presented in a lively and modern manner. For the most part, these places are run by young entrepreneurs who have comprehension in art and design and they know how to do it with great taste.

Iriya Café (www.imadoworks.com/iriyaplus, 2-9-10 Shitaya, Taito) is located in an old, yet carefully restored house in Iriya, Taito-ku area. Its dining hall is set in a spacious doma, a room that traditionally serves as a Japanese living and work room - a place for the entire family can come together. Artists and craftsmen used to live in houses like that already in the ancient Edo period. While father, for example, was working, children were playing right there on the floor. Iriya+Cafe not only honors traditional architecture but also cooks very good vegetarian food made of ecological products. Pancakes are its specialty and they are just fantastic! It is one of the best cafés in the neighborhood with its popularity steadily growing - people are coming over there even from western Tokyo.

A similar place set in ancient premises is also Kayaba Coffee (kayaba-coffee.com) in Yanaka, Taito-ku area. The almost hundred years old kissaten or a coffee shop has once belonged to an old couple and has served as a café already in those times. Unfortunately, after their death, no one took over the business and the house remained quiet and abandoned for quite some time. Then it was obtained by a local gallerist and NGO, who preserves old houses in Taito-ku, they restored the place and reopened the café. Tables, chairs, windows, doors and a bar counter are preserved from the old times and can be recognized easily because of the small dimensions of this place. The former owners had been very small in stature, and therefore the counter, too, had been designed lower than accustomed. You can even notice that currently the counter has been slightly raised from the below, making it a little higher. Kayaba Coffee is located near to the best Japanese art school - Tokyo University of the Arts and usually gathers a crowd of young and creative souls.

Bakurocho Art+Eat (www.art-eat.com/en/index.html, 202 Agata-Takezawa Bldg. 1-2-11 Higashi-Kanda Chiyoda-Ku) is located in the very easternmost part of east Tokyo and accommodates numerous warehouses of various fashion brands. Some of them, however, have been abandoned due to economic crises. These vacant premises are successfully utilized by artists and designers opening their small creative businesses there. Bakurocho Art+Eat is an art gallery / café hybrid serving delicious ethnic cuisines, including African. The café purchases its ingredients from local green farms and there is no doubts regarding products quality. In Bakurocho Art+Eat building there are also many wonderful gift shops and art galleries.

Speaking of art, there are many museums and art galleries in this part of the city. A must-go, for example, is an international contemporary art gallery Scai The Bathhouse (www.scaithebathhouse.com, 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito-Ku). As you can guess from its name, the building has once housed a public bath, and I still remember it from my childhood! Old shoe boxes are still there at the entrance and the former bathhouse image is clearly recognizable in its current interior. The spacious, 200-years-old place with high ceiling is situated not far from Ueno Park and exhibits outstanding art nowadays - the very best artists are represented there! Such artists as Anish Kapoor and Julian Opie have developed new series of works in cooperation with this gallery, drawing inspiration from traditional Japanese culture and craft. Students from the nearby Art University do their fieldwork there, hoping to be able to exhibit their own works at Scai gallery one day.

If you wish to experience good traditional and contemporary design in Tokyo, be sure to visit 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan (www.jrtk.jp/2k540) in Okachimachi Taito-ku area not far from Akihabara, which is hub of Japanese pop culture, featuring animation, cartoons, videogames and much more. The name 2k540 actually indicates the length of the street linking the two areas, which is 2 kilometers and 540 meters. All sorts of design shops and creative studios are located on this street and you can find there almost anything, starting from eyeglass frames to modern furniture.

Perhaps you would like to visit a textile town sited in Nippori Arakawa-ku area (3~6 Higashi Nippori, Arakawa-ku Tokyo). There you will be able to find any textile item, starting from a vintage kimono to all the imaginable and unimaginable textile materials. Even the largest Japanese fashion brands are purchase fabrics there. Many younger generation people may not even know this place as it is pretty traditional but it is a definite must-know for anyone who is linked with fashion in any way.

Ueno Park is a great cultural and entertainment destination in east Tokyo. There are many great parks in Tokyo, and if you highlight one place, the locals would objet asking why you do not point out some other place. As for me, my option is Ueno Park where I spent lots of time in my childhood. Nowadays, however, I have come to know that there are also lots of museums and that rich and varied cultural life is taking place there. There are Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum for Western Art, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and the National Science Technology Museum as well as the International Library of Children's Literature with exhibitions of books taking place throughout the year. The park is also home to the oldest zoo in Japan and numerous cheery trees are blossoming there in spring!

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