Insider: Patti and Giuseppe Piazzi
Gozo and the simplicity of life
Having spent nearly 40 years in the fashion business, Patti and Giuseppe Piazzi left it several years ago and moved to Gozo. Giuseppe's passion is old houses, and when they first came here in the 1990s, he bought a 400-year-old property to use as a summer home. Today Thirtyseven is one of the most charming accommodations on Gozo, or, as they like to call it themselves, a non-hotel. It has only four rooms, each with its own distinct character and story rooted in Gozo but inspired by the Piazzi's travels and eye for fashion. Thirtyseven thereby becomes a journey within a journey. Patti serves their guests breakfast every morning, and Giuseppe takes guests for rides in his boat to see the local bays and visit the best places for snorkelling and diving. The couple understands how lucky they are to live such a simple life here. Especially after a life so impetuous and complicated as their former life. The calm, uneventful pace of life and absolute feeling of an oasis are the main values Patti and Giuseppe now strive to provide for their guests. Over the years they have explored nearly every square metre of the island and have some of the best suggestions for people whose goal is to enjoy a destination rather than rush through it, to observe instead of just notice. Some of Patti's suggestions follow:
"Gozo is a very small island. People who come here want complete rest and relaxation, or else they're interested in water and boats. Gozo does not have sandy beaches, but it does have many small bays. The natural environment here is very harsh but beautiful. The island is ideal for eco-tourists, for hikers, trekkers and bicyclists. And the unbelievably clear water is a paradise for divers.
"The Sannap cliffs are near us. For a wonderful two-hour hike you can walk all the way to Xlendi Bay, where a new promenade has just been opened. The Sannat cliffs are also very beautiful and are located within a nature park where birds stop on their migrations. Below is the small Kantra Bay, a fjord with turquoise-coloured water. A fantastic place! I believe the most beautiful beach on Gozo is San Blas Beach. In order to reach it, one must walk five to seven minutes down the cliff and through an orange grove. In the springtime the trees bloom and bear fruit at the same time. The water at San Blas is crystal clear; I like to come here with a book, sit with my back against the cliff and read. There is a small eatery on the beach, where a guy named Steve serves very tasty hot dogs. Xwenji Bay is also very beautiful. That's on the other side of the island where the Salt Pans begin and the cliffs have flat tops. It's a great place to hike. Many yoga masters have come to practice on Gozo; they say the island has a special healing energy.
"One of the island's best secrets is Mgarr ix-Xini, a small bay and fjord. There Noel and Sandra, a charming couple, have opened a restaurant called Rew Rew where they serve fresh grilled fish and seafood, including lobster. The bay itself is also very beautiful. Go there to enjoy the sun, take a swim and then have lunch with a glass of wine.
"Another 'secret address' is the Geneagles bar on the way to the harbour. The atmosphere reminds one of Hemingway. Here you can drink a cocktail while watching the ships, ferries, boats and yachts come into the harbour. The best fish soup on Gozo is served at Ta Karolina, a small restaurant in Xlendi with only 12 tables. Although the menu is very simple - grilled fish, salad, and so on - everything tastes delicious and the place never disappoints.
"Meat lovers should head to D Bistro in Qala, which serves the best rib-eye steak on the island. The atmosphere is funky and the owner, who also makes great pizzas, is always on-site.
"By living on a small island, one learns to notice and appreciate the beauty of small things. Everything on Gozo is small; even the plants are small because of the strong winds. Especially in February. I like to observe the wind, because there is something cleansing about it.
"I believe the greatest gift of Gozo is the simplicity of life, the opportunity to live and do things without hurry. If you go to the post office, everyone there is happy and says good morning. If you've accidentally forgotten your purse at the grocery store, someone will definitely call and tell you not to worry because the purse has been found. There is almost no theft on the island and many locals leave their doors unlocked. It's a wonderful way to live and it's something we've long forgotten in our big-city lives. Therefore I'm even more happy to be able to live here. I have not lost my link to the fashion world, but it is smaller. I'm still involved with the production process; several photo sessions have taken place on Gozo, including for the French fashion house Chloe. But I believe that the moment you decide to leave something, you no longer vacillate back and forth. We've been in the fashion business for 40 years and also experienced its so-called golden age, the 1980s. It was fun. Today the fashion business has changed completely; it's become more oriented towards business and luxury. Times are hard. I was in Milan recently, and everything there is so fast and aggressive. There is much less money than before; it's hard to make a living. Everyone says, 'La crise, la crise'. The crisis, the crisis. Instead, I think it's a completely different way of living that people have to learn. And also completely different priorities that you must subordinate your life to. I'm 53 years old, and I've discovered a serenity of life on Gozo that I didn't even know existed earlier. I was always in between flights, always on my Blackberry - Hi, Hello, How are you, and so on. I loved it and I've had a fantastic career. But I also believe there comes a point when you must tell yourself it's time to ground yourself, to come back down to earth.
"I make breakfast for the guests myself. I get up at five o'clock and bake croissants. I don't consider it work; instead, it's a way to say good morning to our guests. You know what it's like in the morning - you need to say hello to somebody, to hug somebody. Well, I serve them breakfast. In addition, this isn't a place where people end up by accident. They've usually gone through a certain process of searching until they've found us. Many people return, and we've made a lot of friends that way."
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