Vivenda dos Palhacos
Author: Anothertravelguide.com0 COMMENTS
As signified by its name, Vivenda dos Palhaços belongs to the architectural legacy of the more than 400 years of Portuguese colonial regime in Goa; it is set in the southern town of Majorda. Interestingly, the current owners of Vivenda dos Palhaços are also linked to the colonial past of India through their ancestors - in this case, British. Simon and Charlotte Hayward are Calcutta-born descendants of British colonists; their worldview is dominated by the openness typical of multiculturalism and, at the same time, a real love of India. Close to the creative circles, the brother and sister express their background and lifestyle in the decor of their hotel: they have demonstrated a special flair and taste in creating an atmosphere of a meeting place for genuine citizens of the world. You will be sure to sense it, completely unrestricted by the inevitable stiffness of a traditional hotel or, in fact, any other public space.
Breakfast time sees the large communal courtyard table gather people of all ages, walks of life and nationalities; youngsters, couples with children and older people have no choice but to find common subjects to talk about, mixing and communicating freely. Sheltered by the trees, the clean water in the pool is always refreshingly cool. The pool is lined with typical Indian deck chairs; as you recline in one of them, enjoying the homey feel of the hotel and the blue Indian sky, the staff will take care of you - respectfully, yet without exaggerated servility. This is the right moment to delve into a good book. Surprisingly, some exciting reading matter is provided by the Vivenda dos Palhaços hotel manual - a flavoursome book that should be read on your first night of staying there. The manual contains some useful information and suggestions for travellers, a humour-packed FAQ section, as well as an elaborate take on the idea behind the hotel and the life stories of its owners. The hotel also houses a vast library featuring an excellent selection of books and magazines; actually, books are scattered all over the place and can be found in any of the rooms.
Incidentally, the not-so-numerous rooms are named after certain locations where the Haywards have previously lived and felt happy; the names are like key words to specific periods in the history of the family.
The Vivenda dos Palhaços rooms are large and furnished in the traditional Indian style, with huge tall beds, an impressive-looking fan above each of them. Each room boasts a differently decorated bathroom with stone tiles, free of any synthetic materials (you won't find them anywhere in the hotel). The Madras Room features a partly covered bathroom: the roofless shower cabin is exposed to the yard noises.
A good shower should be followed by a nice evening walk: enjoy the silence of an Indian evening when the sun sets, the wind quiets down, the stars and the moon come out and everything is enveloped by incredible silence only partly penetrated by distant relentless dog barking.
To feel even closer to this spirit of the Indian night, aptly described by Louis Bromfield in his The Rains Came, you should stay in Chanpara - a 'room' that's actually a huge Indian hunters' tent complete with all amenities, set outside the main building, in a poolside cluster of coconut trees. Apparently, the tent symbolises Simon's childhood memories of hunting with his father for the first time.
The hotel also houses a wonderful store featuring a collection of jewellery by excellent Indian artisans, including the British sculptor and artist Andrew Logan's stand; incidentally, the artist rents half of a nearby 300-year villa owned by Charlotte. Charlotte's villa is also the place to go if you feel like enjoying a Swedish or Ayurvedic massage. If you are lucky, your massage session will coincide with a service at the nearby chapel and your relaxation will be accompanied by the singing of the congregation.
Vivenda dos Palhaços
Majorda, Goa
Phone: 91-9881720221
www.vivendagoa.com
info@vivendagoa.com
04/2011
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