Ahmadjon Oshpaz Samarkand plov centre
Author: Anothertravelguide.com1 COMMENT
Plov - pilaf - is the most traditional of all the traditional Uzbek dishes. It is prepared differently in each region (the Uzbek cuisine is said to list at least 50 versions of plov), therefore the only way to experience all the range of nuances in its full magnificent diversity, do try the local variation wherever the road may have taken you. The ancient recipes have remained intact since the 10-12th centuries. The driest of them all (and tasting none the worse for it) is the Khiva and Bukhara plov; it is much richer in Samarkand but reaches the peak of luxuriousness in Tashkent where they serve it with quail eggs, raisins and, should you feel that way inclined, horse meat sausages. Almost every city has its own plov centre which looks a bit like a beehive around midday; the commotion lasts until approximately 2 pm. The locals and tourists form a noisy human hurly-burly. When in Samarkand, it is definitely worth the while to stop for a bite at AhmadjonOshpaz - the plov they serve up here is unrivalled by anything available anywhere in the whole city. The helping - complete with peas, carrots and a generous amount of lamb - is so filling you are not very likely to feel like any supper later at night. While an undeniably rich, plov has always been considered a healthy dish: nourishing and balanced, providing enough fats, proteins and carbohydrates. It is never served and eaten on its own, however - a side-dish of some fresh salad is a must; depending on the season, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and herbs are the usual accompaniment. And don't forget the tea. Tea is mandatory; it is served first, and the strict ritual of tea-drinking is always observed. First the china teapot decorated with ethnic motifs is filled with boiling water, then tealeaves are added with a special spoon, followed by some more boiling water. When the tea is already served, the host repeats the ritual of filling a tea-bowl (pyala) and emptying it into the teapot again three times: the beverage is supposed to gain additional fragrance and richer bouquet of taste that way. According to the local tradition: the less tea you are poured by the host, the greater is his respect for you and the more time he would love to spend in your company. If the pyala is filled to the brim, it is soon emptied and the night is over...
Incidentally, it may not be a good idea to order anything but plov (shashlik, for instance) at these special plov houses: compared to the quality of the plov, it will seem like day to night.
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