things to do
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- DO EXPLORE THE OLD QUARTER or PHO CO - explore it on foot, that is. Do criss-cross the neighbourhood at your own leisure instead of speeding through in a taxi or a motor rickshaw. Hoi An apart, Hanoi is the only Vietnamese city where historical architecture has been preserved in such a high concentration, in spite of wars, floods and the so-called evolution. Ancient sources provide evidence of the old quarter as the heart of Hanoi as early as a thousand years ago. Historically, it was located outside the imperial city and served as a trading venue. The fundament of the old quarter was originally 36 guild streets (36 pho phuong), each named after the merchandise sold there: Hang Duong (sugar and sweets), Hang Bac (jewellery), Hang Bo (bamboo objects), Hang Non (traditional Vietnamese conical hats), etc. To an extent, the principle is still enforced today. The "36" does not actually denote the exact number of crafts represented; it is said to have been chosen mainly as an auspicious number according to the ancient Vietnamese teaching of numerology. The goods were originally produced and sold right there, on the ground floor of the houses/shops. Their tube-style architecture is one of the trademarks of Hanoi; narrow and long, the buildings are placed close to each other. Ground floor historically has always been allocated to shops (these days also to cafés), the courtyard providing light and ventilation. While the façades have significantly changed through the years and many buildings have been completely rebuilt, the main principle has been preserved, integrating everything that has happened to the buildings with the passage of time into a single eclectic construction. Until the early 1900s, the region's architecture was dominated by the Vietnamese style and Chinese influences; later, in the 1930s, it assimilated elements of French architecture and Art Deco and the buildings started to grow vertically like spindling multicoloured stems. The general impression is - total chaos and eclecticism, and yet there is an incredible, captivating charm and an air of unpolished authenticity to the mixture; it makes you want to come back for more... and more, always finding something new. The narrow streets accommodate endless armadas of motorbikes and, regretfully yet increasingly frequently, such alien objects as cars (which do not suit the spirit of the place at all). With the arrival of the afternoon, the modest sidewalk part of the street transforms into a street kitchen; now the only way of getting anywhere is navigating among pots, colourful plastic benches and motorcycles. However, you get used to it very quickly: not a half-hour has passed when you discover with some surprise that you have actually merged into the general chaos which turns out to have a rhythm of its own. The 21st century has left its impact here, of course, and yet you only have to turn into one of the bystreets the width of a large footpath - mercifully unnavigable with motorcycles which have an unnerving habit of seemingly appearing out of nowhere - to realise that the aura of the 19th century is still alive here, complete with small temples hidden in the maze of narrow streets and a unique rhythm of its own. In 2004, the Vietnamese Ministry of Culture and Information awarded the old quarter the status of an item of national historical heritage (read more at www.hanoi2010.org), which means, among other things, that any unsanctioned construction works are forbidden here.
- DO VISIT THE HANOI OPERA. Dating from the early 1900s when the French colonial administration hoped to make Hanoi the capital of Indochina, the building was inspired by the legendary Paris Palais Garnier opera house - except the Hanoi opera house is about two thirds the size of its French prototype. It also has significantly deeper balconies to avoid direct sunlight during the hot season. During the 1945 Vietnamese revolution, the opera house also became one of the epicentres of dramatic events (evidence of which can still be seen in the first-floor mirror hall). At night the opera is lit up and shortly before the performance ladies in eveningwear are a common sight (not that easy to find in European opera houses); besides, to get there you have to cross a vast Paris-style boulevard: a slightly surreal experience, almost transcending time and space.
- DO SEE THE EIFFEL BRIDGE (THE LONG BIEN BRIDGE). Admittedly, apart from the fact that the structure was designed by the legendary French architect Gustave Eiffel, the Hanoi Long Bien Bridge can boast nothing of the symbolic status of the Paris Eiffel Tower; amidst the general chaos of motorbikes and cars, you would not probably even notice the rusty iron monster were it not for the architect's name. And yet there still is an aura of a symbol to it: the 1.6 km long bridge coincides with a strategically significant stretch of the railway line connecting Hanoi and the port of Haiphong. During the Vietnam War, the Americans blew it up; however, the bridge was speedily rebuilt to become a symbol of the unique survival power of the nation. It is not considered safe enough for cars; only motorbikes and pedestrians are allowed to cross it. By the way, Vietnam is home to another structure designed by the great Eiffel - it is the General Post Office building in Ho Chi Minh City.
- DO EXPLORE HOAN KIEM or THE LAKE OF THE RETURNED SWORD. Hoan Kiem Lake, located in a district bearing the same name, is the heart of Hanoi. They say its waters used to stay blue throughout the year; these days the lake seems brown - and yet surely that does not detract from its value. The lake was originally called Luc Thuy and came to be known as Hoan Kiem thanks to an ancient legend of a legendary sword: it is said that the weapon was returned to the giant gold turtle living in the lake after a ten-year battle between the Vietnamese, lead by Le Loi, and Chinese invaders. According to the legend, the turtle appeared from the depths of the lake at a crucial moment and handed Le Loi the miraculous sword. There is still a Turtle Throne in the centre of the lake; whenever one of the giant turtles that used to live in the lake would appear on the surface, it was considered a very special sign. As the water pollution increased, these appearances became less and less frequent... The lake is also home to the Ngoc Son temple connected to the mainland by a red bridge; the temple still houses one of the giant turtles - a stuffed one, of course. Today the lake has become one of the main venues of the Hanoi social life: you will see people taking ritual walks, early morning and afternoon joggers, badminton players and adepts of any of the numerous martial arts. A group of women practise something that looks very much like aerobics... During the wedding season - usually early in the year - brides posing for photographs in the lakeside flower beds (while the obviously bored grooms try to stifle their yawns just a step further); the young wives sport wedding dresses in all the colours of the rainbow and a thick layer of makeup. This actually seems to be the latest fashion: traditional studio pictures are now deemed to be dull and old-fashioned; to have one in your wedding album is considered to be „so passé".
- DO VISIT THE TEMPLE OF LITERATURE OR VAN MIEU, one of the greatest prides of Hanoi. Built in 1070 by the Ly Than Tong dynasty, it was the alma mater of the crown prince Van Mieu and housed the first university in Vietnam. Originally it was meant just for the needs of the royal court; in 1253 the King opened its door to all of the most privileged students in the country. Despite the omnipresent tourists - mostly here for the statue of Confucius - the place fills you with serenity and peace incredible for the heart of the city.
- MAKE SURE YOU VISIT THE ST JOSEPH'S CATHEDRAL. Built in 1883, the cathedral is located at one end of one of the most charming Hanoi streets, Nha Tho, and is considered the first building erected by the French colonists in Hanoi. Inspired by the legendary Notre Dame de Paris, it is a classic example of neo-gothic architecture. The first impression is a total surprise: amidst the traditional tube houses of the district, the cathedral looks almost like a fairytale wonder. To make it even more special, alongside the traditional bricks, building materials used in the construction of the cathedral include some unusual stuff like rice paper mixed with sugarcane syrup (instead of mortar) and the interior is pistachio green.
40 Nha Chung Street
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