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Destinations · Europe · germany · Hamburg · Where to eat ·

Heading towards HafenCity from the hangar side of Deichtorhallen, and just on the other side of the old customs canal bridge, you'll find one of Hamburg's legendary eating establishments - the Oberhafen - Kantine. With small rectangular windows, above which sit singular triangular panes, the canteen is reminiscent of a charming, little brick house for elves. It is difficult to imagine, however, what life used to be like here at the end of the 18th century - on its right loom the modern buildings, construction sites and cranes of HafenCity. The Oberhafen - Kantine, well-hidden in the middle of this contemporary landscape, looks like a little piece of history that has somehow survived and continues to hang on to its old practices. Once, there were many canteens like this, places where harbour workers used to have their meals. Now, just one has remained here.

The Oberhafen - Kantine first opened its doors in 1925 and is interesting in its own right as an example of the so-called Northern German Brick Expressionism. It has a historical link with the legendary Chilehaus, located some distance away in the city centre as the most shining model of this architectural style in Hamburg. The Chilehaus was originally built for the shipping magnate Henry B. Sloman. He accrued his wealth through the import of nitrates from Chile, which were used to make gunpowder for weapons. The building has 10 stories, with 2800 identical windows. From one side, its façade is reminiscent of a huge ship. According to the narrative, 4.8 million bricks were used to build the Chilehaus. They were brought here by barge, and a part of them were allotted for the building of the canteen.

Also notable is the fact that the canteen was in the ownership of just one family for over 70 years; its last member died in 1993, at the age of 83. Throughout its existence, through all of the intervening wars and crises, the canteen was never once closed. It currently has the status of an historical monument. Renovated in 2005, it reopened the following year, in refreshed form. The interior is just as small as the outside, with leather-upholstered seats, wooden tables and a well-worn wooden floor that creaks slightly. The menu still features the Frikadelle (meat balls) that were a favourite of the harbour workers. According to legend, it was a modification of these same meatballs that crossed the ocean and gave birth to the American hamburger. In summers, the canteen opens up an outdoor terrace - an oasis of peace hidden within the industrial landscape.

Stockmeyerstrasse 39

 

 

07/2011

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