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Destinations · Europe · germany · Pfalz region · Essence ·

The official route - Deutsche Weinstrasse - stretches through Pfalz, beginning at the border with France. A massive gate marks its beginning. The other end is at Bockenheim. The total length of the road is 85 kilometres, and it's considered the oldest official wine road in the world. Josef Bürckel, the leader of the local Nazi party, ceremonially declared it open on 19 October 1935. The previous year's harvest was good, but winemaking was thrown into chaos with Hitler's rise to limitless power. The road was meant to be an instrument of propaganda, developing tourism in the region. It is indeed spectacular, with scenic hills covered with vines. Some call it the German Tuscany. Though you will see the effects of past industrialisation here and there, you should certainly try a side road - that means literally disappearing into the vineyards. You can enjoy the clouds, the grapes, and inimitable pastoral scenes. Though the nearness of Alsace can be sensed in the architecture, the atmosphere here is quite different. Here and there, prominent villas suggest the prosperity of this region. There are well-marked hiking routes and attractive bike trails.
The road is closed to automobiles on the last Sunday in August - bicyclists take over. The entire length of the route is transformed into a festival of eating and wine tasting. It's a very German affair.
The centre of the Pfalz is Deidesheim. The main square of this small city gleams - it's scrupulously washed every morning. The church-bells share that sense of propriety and precision, ringing every half hour both day and night. Everything is honed and compact. The city was a favourite of the chancellor who presided over reunification - Helmut Kohl met man major leaders here, including Thatcher, Gorbachev, and the King of Spain, receiving them at the Grand Hotel. Across the main square is the Gasthaus zur Kanne, the oldest tavern in the Pfalz. It's been here since 1374. The Deidesheim Museum boasts the oldest wine in the world to retain its liquid state - the bottle was filled around the year 325.
This region has long been considered the most modern of Germany's winemaking regions in terms of marketing, tourism, and and ability to adapt to new trends. It's also the warnes, with 225 sunny days a year (unless global warming takes its toll). Figs, kiwi, lemons and lovely almond trees share space with the vines. The warmth is notable in the wines. The secret to the terroir here is the Haardt, a continuation of the Vosges on the French side - they shelter the Pfalz from wind and rain, making the climate almost Mediterranean. It's home to Germany's legendary "3 Bs" - Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan and Reichsrat von Buhl. Reichsrat wine was served at the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 - at the time it was among the most expensive wines on earth.

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