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Destinations · Europe · italy · Milan · Routes ·


Author:, Tatyana Polyakova0 COMMENTS


If you have a single day in Milan
By far the best place to have your morning coffee in the capital of style is at one of the shady tables in the BVLGARI hotel's garden.

If there's anything you must not miss - reserve a visit to Santa Marie Della Grazie. Here you can see the Last Supper. The fresco dates to the 15th century. Il Cenacolo Vinciano. This is the essential thing!

At a leisurely pace, go on to Spazzio Rossana Orlandi. This is an address any gourmet in Milan knows well. It's located in a former necktie factory. Now a gallery and concept store, it offers two very different spaces - one for design and one for fashion. Try not to focus on the prices! Check this place out at an inspirational level and get more inspiration than you bargained for! This could be the cutting edge of art, fashion, and photography. Anything found here is something you could treasure as a chip from a particular moment.

Foto: Routes

Have lunch at Latteria San Marco. A family place with only seven tables, this lunch spot has nonetheless attained cult status among the Milanese. Maria will judge you by your face, maybe, because she knows her proper customers. English will be spoken only by the Asian bartender. Credit card are not accepted and asking for the lavatory might get you sent elsewhere, but this is a place people flock to no matter who they are.

At Via Della Moscova 15, not far at all, is a rather wonderful vintage shop - Libri&Robe, Books and Dresses.

If you're into vintage stuff, check out Elio Ferraro Gallery/Store. This is a legend in itself. It's also Elio Ferraro's one and only place, and he knows clothing like nobody else. His inimitable taste is obvious both in the selection and the display.

Take a cocktail at N'Ombra de Vin. Small, intimate, and somewhat Bohemian, this is the province of one of the most esteemed wine merchants in Milan. In

Foto: Routes

Have another cocktail, this time at the Cafe Radetzky. Among the milanesi this is the "it" place. You might think you're in New York, but give it a try.

Dine at Alla Cucina Economica. The proprietress is indeed from the world of fashion, but the cuisine overpowers even her. She finished her fashion career and those who come here still come from that world, but the menu with only eight variations will take you out of this world.

Bvlgari Hotel, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b,
Santa Maria della Grazie, Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2
Spazzio Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14/16,
Lateria San Marco, Via San Marco 24
Libri&Robe, Via della Moscova 15
Elio Ferraro Gallery/Store, Via Pietro Maroncelli, 1,
N'Ombra de Vin, Via San Marco 2
Cafe Radetzky, Largo la Foppa 5
Alla Cucina Economica, Via Francesco Guicciardini, 8,

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If you have two days in Milan
Within two days you probably figured out that it's a tragedy that you never learned Italian. But - it's not too late! You could at least go to the Recordi Vittorio Emanuele gallery and pick up some discs. Fabrizio de Andre, Lucio Batisti, De Gregori Giovanotti... everything you get will help. Listen and learn. Pronounce things as people here do!

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If you don't go to La Scala to see and hear an opera, you must at least see the opera house by day, if only to admire its interior.

The theory that fashion and design are circumscribed by the golden rectangle or as Milanese name it quadrilatero della moda (Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga, Via Santo Spirito, Via Sant'Andrea) is a myth that Milan works cunningly to foist upon you. It is cultivated to the extent that you should seek uncultured pearls and when you do that you are sure to find them, even in forgotten streets. Try the side-streets. The Santa Maria Novella is a legend of the Italian art of perfume-making and pharmacy with a history of over 800 years. A tiny pharmacy to produce various balms, medicine and salves was founded in 1221 by Dominican monks under the wing of the Santa Maria Novella monastery in Florence. Only natural plant essences are used as ingredients; most of the products are still prepared according to ancient recipes.

Not so far from there you could discover the Marchesi in the Corso Magenta. Never, ever ask for an espresso. Just ask for coffee - un caffe. Don't betray the fact that you are a tourist! Get a marocchino or a corretto. And do bear in mind that nobody in Italy gets a cappuccino after eleven.

Foto: Routes

Unless a visit to the golden triangle is your heartfelt goal, just go to 10 Corso Como. Check out the wild jasmine. Jasmine is the symbol of Milan, by the way. Here you will find a mausoleum of fashion. As in most mausoleums, most visitors are tourists. The Milanese come here out of respect for Carla Sozzani. A prominent gallerist and a sister of an editor and director of the Italian Vogue Franka Sozzani. Once here, walk for seven minutes to the outlet (Via Tazzoli 3). In scale and in grandeur it is pretty much the same thing. But it's also 50%-70% off.

If by any chance you have gone where you had to go but missed lunchtime because of your industriousness (between 2:00 pm and 2:30 pm most restaurants shut down), satisfying your hunger might be a difficult task. The best places to do this would be Bistrot Giacomo in Via Pasquale Sottocrnbo at number 6 or the newly opened restaurant in the courtyard of Aspesi, a shop in Via Montenapoleone. You could also head for the Museum of Architecture and Design, where lunch is served all day. You could see the museum building if not the exhibits. The museum hosts rotating exhibits, and at least one is always worth a visit. Design, photography or contemporary art could be dessert.

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Get dinner at Home. On Sundays, this is where to get a great brunch. The cuisine here is spot on and creative. It's spiced up in ways you won't expect!

Ricordi, Via Ugo Foscolo, 3 (galleria Vittorio Emanuele II)
Teatro alla Scala, Piazza alla Scala,
Santa Maria Novella, Corso Magenta, 22
Pasticceria Marchesi, via S. Maria alla Porta 11/A
10 Corso Como, 10 Corso Como,
Triennale Design Museum, Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6,
Home, Via Tortona 12,

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If you have three or four days in Milan

If your visit falls on the last Sunday of the month, the Navigli canal area hosts an unforgettable market. Check out Rippa di Porto for the best stuff. From heavy furniture to light clothes, any person and his or her style in any season can be accommodated superbly.

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On your third or fourth day you could go to a lake. Not just any lake. Lake Como could be the world's best known lake. Go out to the isle of Comacina and dine at Locanda dell'Isola Comacina. The proprietor has operated this establishment for three decades. It's a simple place, or perhaps even simpler than simple, but patrons have included Joe Cocker, Barbra Streisand, and Elton John. Fresh fish from the lake you are looking at are grilled before you.

Lago Maggiore is preferred by the locals, though. It's not much further. At Stresa or Verbiana you can get a vaporetto to Isola Bella. The island is owned by the almost legendary Borromeo family. The garden has an entrance fee, but seeing the peacocks is recompense. Isola dei Pescatori is next - Fishermen's Island. At the Hotel Verbano, at the point, you can get great food and a postcard view. There are twelve rooms. If you stay in one, you could extend your stay to five or six or who knows how many days...

Locanda dell'Isola Comancina,
Hotel Verbano,

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