Taverna de Mercanti and Other Taverns of Trastevere
Author: Anothertravelguide.com1 COMMENT
Travestere used to be the bohemian district of Rome. These days a large part of its denizens are prosperous expatriates; nevertheless the old charm has not been lost. Travestere really comes to life late at night, and it is the perfect place for a proper, authentic late Roman dinner. Tiny streets, time-beaten buildings and lots of very simple tavern-style restaurants, complete with torchlight and a real kitchen stove on which meat is fried.
Simple, tasty, rustic food: potatoes with pearl barley, pasta, next to it - a proper chunk of meat. Vegetables prepared in a number of ways are a traditional Roman fare, particularly artichokes (carciofi), zucchinis and aubergines (melanzane), and the Travestere taverns are the place to go for a platter of traditionally prepared vegetable antipasti: just to appease the first pangs of hunger while your pasta and second course are still cooking.
Taverna de' Mercanti is a good choice. It is located in a small and charming medieval piazza; the front wall is adorned with blooming flower pots and lit up with torches at night, creating a picture worthy to become a film set. You can choose a table on the outdoor terrace or inside where the ambience is definitely more authentic - considering the fact that the building is a 15th century stable conversion (the inevitable cart-wheel is one of the main elements of the décor). The main dining hall is situated on the top floor; on your way up you will notice the staff busy at work in the kitchen to the right of the stone staircase (behind the wine barrels). Some people take the rough paper scroll of a menu with them as a memento. The speciality of the house is grilled meat: excellent beef and pork. Don't spurn the wine of the house! The place is usually packed and you would do wise to book a table in advance.
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