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Destinations · Europe · russian federation · Moscow · Where to eat · Crème de la Crème

Bon

Author: Anothertravelguide.com0 COMMENTS

Bon

Paris has it; London, New York and Miami have it - well, you could bet your bottom dollar Moscow needed its own little bit of Philippe Starck as well! It will feel a bit as if you were visiting a Halloween set as you enter the place: lamps with stylised gold Kalashnikovs as bases and euro, dollar and rouble notes on their glittering round bellies. The colour scheme is dominated by black, white, gold and silver. Hundreds of burning (and decoratively melting) candles in black candlesticks make for a warm ambience which, at the same time, is somewhat disturbingly reminiscent to that of a luxury mortuary... A chair upholstered in black-and-white cow hide, a death's head embroidered in gold on a backrest of a black velvet sofa. The scrupulous hand of the designer has helpfully placed a photography album by the classic of fashion S&M Helmut Newton within your reach as if inviting to browse while expecting to be served some edible design on a plate. Oh yes, and a black-framed black altar to the consumerist culture with a mobile Philippe Starck on the wall: now you see him, now you don't as he disappears into the darkness. To complete the morbid effect, a lonely candle is burning in front of it. It makes sense: if you're doing aesthetic necrophilia, don't stop halfway through. The loo offers a sink with a golden duck and Socialist Realism-style walls scribbled all over with Vice, Learn to murder, I am dirt and other messages in the same vein.
Although the décor is definitely an experience in itself, it's pretty hard to silence the tiny devil of aftertaste whispering that surely good old Starck must have had his tongue firmly implanted in his cheek while designing the interior of his Moscow Bon franchise (there are two of his Bon restaurants already in Paris). He will have his little joke: all of the current fashion clichés, including obsession with gold, Gothic style and skulls, served under the sauce of a single restaurant... The object at the receiving end of Starck's fun-making seems to be the Russian metropolis itself: Bon seems almost moderate against the backdrop of the billions and gutters, the clashing contrasts, exaggerations and poisoning scandals... The crowd seems to have stepped out of the Vogue magazine's gossip pages - the sort who never bother to check out the price column on the menu. The food, however, won't knock your socks off: don't expect to sample any masterpieces of haute cuisine. You will do better with a Dolce & Gabbana cocktail.

4 Yakimanskaya Embankment
Phone: + 7 (495) 737 8008

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