St John
Author: Anothertravelguide.com1 COMMENT
Excellently executed traditional British kitchen. Instead of the over-cooked and over-oiled slabs of meat and super-rich puddings, Smithfield's St John (the second St John restaurant is located in Spitalfields) serves a seemingly simple proper good fare prepared from healthy organic ingredients. Served in a slightly country-style manner without fancy trimmings, the food has received the perfect thermal treatment, retaining an abundant bouquet of flavours and high nutritious quality: the spinach has been wilted to the exact right point; the beef bone-marrow is complemented by a fabulously moreish slice of toasted bread and countless variations of seeds and grains. Practically the whole animal is used for meat here, from the snout to the tail - be it as a filet, a steak or as escallops. The restaurant, opened in 1994 by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, boasts a truly original location: it is housed in a converted smokehouse; today its industrial interior and planning is masked only by the whitewashed walls and ceiling, the chimney-side bar, the open kitchen and the menu blackboard on the wall. Otherwise the place looks pretty much the same as back in the good old times, including the somewhat crude brick relief. The staff wear kitchen uniforms thus contributing to the impression that your waiter is serving a dish prepared with his own hands - which, obviously, is not true. A very friendly and personal service that makes for excellent atmosphere for a business lunch.
26 St. John Street, London
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Marcus Henderson
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