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· Europe · spain · Canary Islands

To most part of right-minded people the Canary Islands might seem as a nightmare. Beaches, crammed with people, craving for the sun, while the others, exposing their white legs in shorts, are roaming about with cameras hanging on their bellies. In spite of this image, a tourism Mecca has managed to conceal some quiet corners too. Moreover, the Canaries is the only place in the world, where, in winter, alongside with a European culture, mentality, traditions, history and atmosphere one can enjoy a pleasantly warm climate, fresh fruit and fish.
The magnificent cliffs in the western part of Gran Canaria, with the San Nicolas road winding through them, is a natural but a quite considerable obstacle, spearing the little town Agaete and the port of Puerto de las Nieves, located just a few kilometres further, from the flow of mass tourism. Only the psychologically strongest characters or total nut-cases dare to cover this distance, as it is not possible to pass without notice the signs, warning about falling rocks and steep precipice alongside the road. Yet, those who get across feel like in heaven!
Along with a bright whiteness of every single house, the biggest treasure of Agaete, with its just 6 thousand inhabitants, is the bountiful valley, rich in papaya, mango, avocado and other delicacies. Here you can find the once extremely famous hotel Princesa Guayarmina, worth honouring at least by drinking a cup of coffee, which is really good there.
A speciality of Agaete seems to be papaya, cut into small cubes and covered with fresh orange juice - simple yet ideal combination, and an obsession of all eating establishments in the town.
Puerto de las Nieves (Port of Snow in translation) countless time a day becomes a stopping place for thousands of ferry passengers coming from a nearby Tenerife's Island to Gran Canaria. No need to worry - mostly they are well-off elderly people who, after a short tour through the small local shops, get into busses and are transported to the more touristy part of the round island. Life in the "Snow Port" has never ceased to bubble, even after the only tropical storm in the history of the Canaries, Delta, in November 2005; however, it considerably damaged the famous Gods finger (Dedo de Dios). Still nowadays numerous signs all over the place urge to admire this several million years old rock formation, although the finger itself has long time since snapped off.

Puerto de Laguete

A very simple principle has to be observed, when looking for a places where to have a meal on this washed by the ocean island. Eat only in those restaurants, the owners of which have their own boats! Moreover, if you manage to chum up with the staff there, fresh fish from the morning catch on your plate is guarantied. A restaurant Puerto de Laguete in Agaete, although very simple and unpretentious, is preserving its traditions already for decades, and the time seems to have stopped here. A situation can be explored, while drinking a cup of warm cortado coffee. The special guests get a dash of local rum with some citrus peal to go with it. Along with subjects like politics and football, do not forget to inquire Nino, the barman, about the morning's catch. Who knows, maybe you will be lucky enough to arrange something special, if you promise to have a dinner at Puerto de Laguete and nowhere else. But on some very rare occasions even he manages to mistreat his guests, offering the previous days fish, instead of freshly caught one.
Sometimes understanding of a heat-treatment of sea products there is somewhat different, and it might be wise to warn the chef of Puerto de Laguete not to overdo your delicious fish. Sardines are fantastic, served with papas arugadas or small salty potatoes (boiled with peel) and green sauce. They are perfect mach with the El Grifo wine from Malvasi grapes, made in Lanzarote Island, or a bottle of Galician Albarino. Muss de Gofio and muss de Cactus, in their turn, are made from freshly picked cactus fruit. These deserts are much sought after not only by visitors but by locals too. If you are lucky to visit this place when a guy from Andalusia, Hose, is working, you have to taste his sangria - a lovely start for a siesta time.

Tel.: 928 898 650

El Oliver

The best place to enjoy the local food for someone, who tries to stray away from the general flow of tourists in Puerto de las Nieves, is El Oliver. This restaurant manages to maintain a balance in everything. While a real connoisseur might question the quality of fish there, it is easily compensated by clearly the best lapas mussels with sauce, served on a hot pan! Catching of this special variety of mussels was prohibited two years ago, due to its small population. Anthonio, the owner of the restaurant, saves them only for very special guests, and you will not find them in a menu. The best table there is outside, where, in front of viewers an eye, unfolds incredibly beautiful view of the rocky road of San Nicolas. For entire bliss you might ask for cold beer or sangria, prepared there on the spot.

Address: Av. Poetas 5, Agaete 35480
Phone: 928 886 179

A fascinating architectural discovery is Las Palmas - the capital of Gran Canaria. Especially attractive will seem the central square and the not very big old city, where, ironically enough, side by side cohabits a church, a bar and a brothel. The city, where once has stopped Christopher Columbus, is still somewhat neglected by mass tourism, unless taken into account thousands of Spanish visitors from Madeira. This fact alone makes the adorable corner of the world even lovelier.
The night life in Las Palmas runs high but its very essences can be found not in its clubs but in small tapa bars and cafés with open air terraces, where the Spanish wine and talks flow briskly.

El Rincón de Joselito

Even the furthest Spanish territory can not be imagined without traditional jamón or pork-leg. Also in El Rincn de Joselito, one of the most favourite places in Las Palmas, an enormous ham of pork is hanging in the most distinguishable place, and not just any pork, but one of extra fine quality. A bit expensive and slightly pretentious, ground floor tapa bar and the first floor restaurant are located on a busy shopping street and surprises with its modern interior, quite indistinctive to the Pacific ocean island. And of course, very good wine - but in Spain it is natural!

Address: Cano 31, Las Palmas 35002
Tel.: 928 431 198

Macabeo

Macabeo is a wine bar in Las Palmas. It's a place where its visitors are returning again and again, thanks to its fantastic ambience and, of course, the wine. Lively conversations and red wine are fizzing at the very narrow and ascetic bar; squeezing in, are the ones who want to join, but a warm Canary air is freely breezing in through the opened door. It's not possible not to feel groovy there! But wait, that is not all - the bartender has a dangerous resemblance with George Cluney, tapas are more then excellent, and if you don't ask for anything else, you will get some red wine from a just opened bottle. Tables can be booked in advance, but only the more remote ones.

Address: Calle La Pelota, 35001 Las Palmas
Phone: 0034928322516

Estrella Marina and Mama Gata

The only grand thing about a small costal village, Gran Juan, is its name. But the small and frugal restaurant, Estrella Marina, located at the very beach, easily surpasses any of the best ones - fish is outstanding and it cots next to nothing! For a portion of fish together with wine one has to pay ridiculous 10 to 15 Euros. Nothing much is needed, just ask the restaurant manager, Tomas, about this morning's catch and chose from the offered fish the one your stomach might like the best.
Mama Gata (Mother cat in translation) is another lovely restaurant, just in the other end of the island, and the fish is always fresh there.

Garachico

Tenerife is the most touristy of the two Canary Islands. It amazes not only with fantastic scenery but also with remote places, not flooded with people yet. In Los Abrigos there is a whole promenade, scattered with quite a good restaurants, the highest point of the island, Teide, surprises with its temperature, just a few degrees above zero and the snow, but racing through the dark and craggy tunnels of Buenavista del Norte, brings forth surreal horror and gives shivers, as one by one the warning signs disappear behind.
A small town of Garachico, with just about 5 thousand inhabitants, is an excellent place to enjoy your stay in Tenerife in another way. Until the 18th century, when destroyed by the volcanic eruption, Garachico was a significant centre of the northern part of Tenerife. The best one among small local hotels is San Roque, a well known brand to every Spaniard, and La Quinta Roja. Pleasure is not for free and costs some 250 euros, but the coffee is exceptional there.

www.quintaroja.com
www.hotelsanroque.com

Ifonche

Driving into the direction of Villaflora or towards the almost four kilometres high Teide peak, with temperatures of 4 to 5 degrees above zero, you will surely come across a tiny tavern, where no tourist has ever stepped in. And there, just at the right moment, the son-in-law of the landlady, Anthonio, offers freshly prepared sangria, the beset one in the whole Canaries! No, the beset one in the whole world! Every day the same old men are coming here; they sit there, sipping wine and rum from big glasses, talking about women and politics. And be careful with sangria - the way back, along the steep slopes, might be difficult.

Masca

The ancient village in the south-west of Tenerifes has gained its place in the Hall of fame of the world's geography with one of the most surreal sceneries - two tremendous mountain ranges meet there, and between them, in the distance, the blue ocean and a neighbouring island of La Gomera come into sight. For a brief moment your enraptured mind stands still. And then it seems that this unique masterpiece of the nature, alone, has been the reason for visiting the Canaries. Unfortunately, improvements of the rocky road make this place more and more available to careless flow of tourists.

Useful Information

- The Canaries are not excessively indulging with regards of food. Fish are served with no fancy extras - everything is very simple and clear. All the other sea food, however smart might be their names, are frozen, which means that much of its freshness is lost.

- The best hide-away in the Gran Canaria is Sardines beach with couple of small restaurants, Terora, with unmatched mountain scenery, and the town of Mogán, with the most delicious papayas, pineapples, mango and avocado, growing in the nearby valley.

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