Insider: Brian Grech
Living in Valletta is back in style
Brian Grech is a photographer and designer and one of the new, creative generation of Maltese bringing new life to the historical capital of Valletta. In 2006 he and his partner established Valletta Suites, one of the most stylish accommodations in the city - a non-hotel consisting of three luxury apartments in historical buildings. For the interiors, Grech has successfully combined the essence of the island's historical heritage with respect towards its centuries-old traditions and a shot of contemporary design.
What do you like best about Malta?
The weather here is beautiful all year round. It's true, the summers tend to be very hot, but the rest of the time the climate is very pleasant. And also definitely the history. The influence of Baroque architecture in Valletta is simply fascinating.
What do you not like about Malta?
Sometimes it feels like everything here is too small, because Malta is an island and every once in a while one just feels like escaping. Just for a change of scenery. But there are undeniably positive things about living on an island, too. Because of its small size, it's possible to get everywhere simply and quickly. It hardly takes more than half an hour to get anywhere. On the other hand, there are definitely too many cars on the roads here.
Living in a city like Valletta, which is so saturated with history, do you not sometimes get the feeling that you are becoming a part of that history yourself?
Yes, possibly, because Valletta is so obviously permeated with history. Many of the locals have been living here for generations. But it's also true that many people have left Valletta and moved to, for example, Sliema. Before the war, Valletta was considered a very prestigious place to live; people dressed up to stroll along Republic Street. But the city lost some of its earlier splendour when the so-called national housing was built after the war. Valletta was not longer considered a prestigious place to live, and in one sense the city was no longer even considered the capital. Now everything is changing; much is being renovated and renewed, and a new generation of architects, designers and other members of the creative industries is conspicuously moving to the city, thereby giving a breath of completely fresh air to Valletta.
One sign of the new Valletta is undeniably Renzo Piano's renovation of the city gates, the new opera and the parliament building. The local reaction, however, is ambiguous. What's your opinion?
I also have conflicting opinions. I don't really like the idea that the theatre will be located next to the parliament. But the politicians on this island are very powerful. Maybe it's so that the people will take more notice of them. The main gate and its narrow bridge-like approach will most likely be interesting, but the open theatre building does not really appeal to me right now. But we'll have to see what it's like when it's all finished. It always takes time to get used to something. I'm more concerned about how the new buildings will look together with the historical façades. If this project were located in some other city, it would probably be fine. But right now it's like a business card. It's good that new and modern things are happening in the city, but Valletta is too small and any type of interference is instantly reflected in its face, in its image. It's not like in London or Rome.
What are your favourite restaurants in Valletta?
In the morning, I like to have coffee at the historic Cafe Cordina. True, it does fill up with tourists later in the day, but around the bar it's mostly locals. Another good place for coffee or a glass of wine is the Charles Grech café on Republic Street. In addition, it's also open late on Friday evenings. Meat-lovers and those who wish to try fentaka, the classic local dish of stewed rabbit, should go to Rubino. I also suggest the Legligin wine bar, both for its wine and its interior design. I believe the ratio of price to quality is very good in Valletta. Compare that to, for example, Venice or other touristy cities, where you pay way too much for food of poor or mediocre quality.
Where do you head to when you want to escape from Valletta?
Sometimes I go to Sliema, just for a cup of coffee. Just for a change. There I feel a sort of reflection from the hurry of the metropolis. In the summer I go to the Baia beach, a fairly secluded place on the north shore of the island. I also like the Palazzo de Piro café in the old town of Mdina.
I know a lot of Maltese like the island of Gozo because it's quieter and greener. But I guess it's too quiet for me; I'm a city person.
Where are the so-called "tourist traps" that you'd suggest one avoid?
Personally, I do not like Buggiba, which is more like a tourist resort.
And what about St. Julian's?
It's definitely better than Buggiba, but it's nevertheless touristy. Although, if you know where to go, it's OK. In any case, I would much rather choose Valletta. Compared to St. Julian's and Sliema, Valletta has managed to preserve its authenticity. Even though it does have more tourists than before, it is not overrun by souvenir shops like Venice.
Speaking of souvenirs, what should one bring home from Malta?
We are currently developing our own line of design, but until that is finished...Maltese glass. The Maltese tradition of glass-blowing is very old and also very interesting. Gold, silver, also lace. It's true that it's much harder to find traditionally-made lace nowadays, but it's not impossible. And, of course, bajtra, which is a sweet wine made from prickly pear.
And wine?
I prefer red wine to white wine. The Maltese climate is quite harsh and is therefore more suited to red wines. There are a few good quality wines here, but production volumes are not very large. That's why Maltese wines might be a bit more expensive than Sicilian wines.
How would you characterise the Maltese as a people?
I think the Maltese are in general very friendly. Outsiders usually consider us to be very helpful and generous. The Maltese were also once very religious, and that's why you'll find churches all around the island. But, like elsewhere in the world, much has changed along with the new generation.
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