Insider: Stewart Spence
A city with a big village atmosphere
Stewart Spence is an Aberdeen legend. He is the owner of the city's only five-star hotel, Marcliffe Hotel and Spa, and has been in the hotel business for over 50 years, since age 15, when he began his career as a chef's assistant. Marcliffe Hotel opened its doors to the public for the first in 1993, with former Russian head of state Mikhail Gorbachev attending the ceremony. Since that time, a whole string of stars has stayed at the hotel, including Margaret Thatcher, Tony Blair and Rod Stewart. Photos of these and other celebrity guests are displayed on the grand piano in the hotel's Drawing Room. Marcliffe Hotel is located in a historical Victorian-era building slightly outside of central Aberdeen. It has only 38 rooms and feels like a true oasis of hedonism...just like its owner. Among other things, Spence is also a passionate wine aficionado, golfer and fisherman for whom "salmon tours" of Iceland and Russia are annual rituals. Above all, however, Spence is a passionate Aberdeen patriot; he has left Aberdeen only once in his long lifetime, while he trained in Paris for two years. He calls Aberdeen a gateway city, a base from which to embark upon excursions further into Scotland, whether they be whisky tours or outings to legendary castles or seaside villages. "Although it is a vibrant city of over a quarter of a million people, no matter where you are in the city you can be in the countryside within 10 to 15 minutes. It has a big village atmosphere, which is really nice," he says. We asked Spence for his recommendations regarding golf, gastronomy and relaxing.
What would be your ideal itinerary for a weekend tour of the Aberdeen area?
On the first day, a tour of the castles near Aberdeen. On the second and third days, a whisky tour and a drive along the northern coast all the way to Elgin, which is the birthplace of Scottish cashmere. You should definitely stop at Johnstons of Elgin, which has been producing fine wool and cashmere fabrics since 1979. Of course, you can by their products in London and elsewhere around the world, but there it's much more expensive. In addition, in Elgin you can also see how all of it is made. The Elgin factory is located on the banks of the River Lossie, and it is open to the public five days a week.
Balmoral Castle, one of the residences of the British royal family, is definitely worth a visit. The Queen lives there for ten weeks every year, and the castle is also open to the public for a short time (from April 1 to July 31). Crathes Castle is also relatively close to Aberdeen, only about a 20-minute drive. This 16th-century castle belonged to the same family for over 400 years but is now under the management of the National Trust for Scotland and is open to the public. But the most dramatic castle in the Aberdeen area is, of course, Dunnottar Castle, which stands atop a cliff right on the seacoast. It's a fantastically powerful site! Slains Castle near Cruden Bay evokes a similar feeling. It was made famous by Bram Stoker, who was inspired by it to write his novel Dracula. Visitors can experience a whole range of feelings and styles of castle in the Aberdeen area, from the dramatic (Dunnottar, Slains) to the nice, gentle ones like Crathes, Drum Castle and Duff House. Duff House is a part of the National Galleries of Scotland and is also an art museum. It also happens to be close to a very good golf course, Duff House Royal Golf Club.
Where are the best and most interesting golf courses?
Lately, I've been going to the Trump Golf Club most often. It's right by the sea - a fantastic spot. I'm an honorary member of that club, as I am of Cruden Bay, which is on the list of the 100 best golf clubs in the world and is legendary for its dramatic panoramas of the North Sea and its dunes. The Cruden Bay Golf Club was established in 1899. I'm also a member of the Royal Aberdeen Golf Club, which is the sixth oldest golf club in the world. The Deeside, Ballater and Braemar golf clubs are also great. In fact, almost every small town here has its own golf club. Last year we were able to play golf all year round because it snowed for only two days.
Where are the best fishing spots around Aberdeenshire?
Definitely the River Dee, the River Don and the River Ythan for salmon and sea trout and for sea fishing it has to be ports and little harbours like Catterline, Stonehaven, and Collieston.
What are your five favourite restaurants in Aberdeen?
That's not so simple. Aberdeen is full of good restaurants, so it's pretty hard to have a poor experience. One of my favourites is Cults Hotel (328 N Deeside Rd.), which has a true British pub serving fish and chips and beer, but the quality there is much higher than is usually found in traditional pubs. If you're looking for a really good steak, go to Prime Cuts (31 Crown Street, City Centre), and my favourite Italian restaurant is Bistro Verde (1-2 The Green, City Centre). Another good choice is Granite Park (8 Golden Square, City Centre), and for Chinese and Thai cuisine head to Zen (17 Bon-Accord Crescent).
How would you describe the people of Aberdeenshire?
I think they have always been friendly, they may be a little cautious to being with but once you make friends with them, you make friends for life.
What is the biggest stereotype about Scotland and is it (or is not) true?
That the Scottish people are frugal, greedy, and not generous and I have always found it to be the complete opposite of this.
Which is the most special place (emotionally, spiritually etc.) for you in Aberdeenshire?
I think definitely my golf clubs; my 60 years at Royal Aberdeen Golf Club and my almost 50 years at Cruden Bay Golf Club. Also some of the stretches on the River Dee and Don where I have caught my biggest and best salmon.
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