Insider: Johan Malm
"Göteborg is one of the world's largest villages"
Restaurant Gabriel, established in the Göteborg Feskekörka fish market about 30 years ago by Gunnar Malm, has become something of an institution - a place to enjoy the best seafood in the city. Gunnar's son, Johan, first donned a chef's apron at age six (there's a picture of the occasion displayed on a shelf at the restaurant) and admits that, at an age when most people are making important decisions about their careers, he wasn't convinced he wanted to devote his life to the culinary arts. At the time, he was a high jumper. But then he injured his knee, and "the chef's trade is what I knew. Now I'm used to it and don't feel like it's work anymore. It's more like a lifestyle, because one cannot choose this profession as a career. You must love the work, otherwise the hours are just too long and it's too stressful. My father was always at the restaurant every day, from the time it opened until it closed at night. I do the same."
By the way, Johan happens to be the world champion at opening oysters, a distinction he won in 2010 at the Guinness World Oyster Opening Championship, which has taken place in Ireland for the past 60 years. He laughs: "When I was younger, I dreamed of becoming world champion in many disciplines but was unfortunately unable to do so. So, as soon as the opportunity arose in the oyster niche, I took advantage of it. It's also an opportunity for me to get away from my daily work for several weekends a year. In addition, all of my rivals are great guys and we're like one big family."
Although he's already 30 years old, Johan has never lived anyplace other than Göteborg, nor has he ever felt the urge to do so. "The answer is very simple," he says. "This is my city. I've always lived here. This is my home. This is where I was born and grew up; I know everyone here, and they know me. I know what to do here, I know where to go. My business is here, and I'm very happy about that. I enjoy every day. I'm spoiled by my clients; they love this restaurant, and that's always a wonderful feeling."
Why do you think people should visit Göteborg? What's so special about it?
I think it's wonderful to live in such a small city. Everything is so close and so easy to find. And the gastronomy scene in Göteborg has also changed so much in the past five years. We've gotten rid of a string of poor restaurants, and right now most of the restaurants in the city are very good. In any case, it's hard not to find a good meal in Göteborg. And, because it's so small, there aren't a lot of tourists in Göteborg nor are there many distinct tourist restaurants. Of course, there are some more touristy places on the main avenue, but you'll find lots of Swedish tourists there, too. Göteborg has no typical "tourist traps", and you'll always hear Swedish spoken wherever you go, which is nice, too.
Compared to Stockholm, Göteborg seems much simpler and more open.
Yes, definitely. There's an old saying: "No one is actually from Stockholm. Everybody who lives in Stockholm has just moved to Stockholm. It's no one's town." Many of the people in Göteborg have lived here for generations and generations. You can feel the difference immediately. All you need to do is get on the train to Stockholm and try to climb off at the central station. As someone from Göteborg, you're usually standing by the door, wanting to get off the train. But it's not so easy, because people in Stockholm move quickly, everything is chaotic and stressful. People don't look each other in the eye; they just go their own way. Interpersonal relationships in Göteborg are much more friendly. Göteborg is not a city. It's one of the largest villages in the world.
The current trend in gastronomy is for healthier foods and changing people's eating habits. But Swedish cuisine is in essence not very healthy; people eat large, substantial meals because traditionally they did a lot of physical work, they fished out on the sea, and the climate is quite harsh, too. But nowadays most people sit in offices. Do you feel this change has also affected the national cuisine?
We always work with the best ingredients - our fish are fresh, straight from the sea. Yes, 99% of our dishes contain potatoes, served in a great variety of ways. But Restaurant Gabriel has been around for 30 years, and the building is older still. Our regular customers know they'll find the same type of fish dishes on our menu as they did 10 and 15 years ago. And I don't think we need to change that. That's not our weakness; instead, it's our strength. The catch of the day is always a special part of our menu, and that is the only part of the menu that changes regularly. That's the only part of our menu where we allow ourselves to be more modern. Otherwise, our menu has not changed in 30 years. So, the grandchildren can eat the same dishes their parents ate as children. They're classics. It's like trying to change a Wienerschnitzel. You don't do it.
Where do you suggest people go in Göteborg to enjoy truly good Swedish cuisine?
Go to Koka (Viktoriagatan 12). It's located in the former home of Michelin-starred Kock & Vin, which was also owned by the same chef, Björn Persson. But he wanted to change the concept; he wanted to offer the same great cuisine but in a more approachable atmosphere and at friendlier prices. I must admit it's very difficult to suggest a truly Swedish restaurant in Göteborg, because there are hardly any left.
What are your favourite restaurants in Göteborg?
Linnéa Art (Södra vägen 32), which unites fine dining with a bistro atmosphere. Wonderful food! The owner is from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the interior design was created together with some of the best glass artists in the world.
When I want a good, substantial lunch, I go to Manfred's Brasserie (Nordenskiöldsgatan 28). It belongs to two gentlemen, one from Austria and the other from Switzerland. The menu is a combination of Wienerschnitzel, Swedish cuisine and game.
Barabicu Pan American Grill (Rosenlundsgatan 4) is currently very popular. It's a good place to go on a Wednesday or Thursday evening. Always full, the Grill has a great atmosphere, good drinks and OK dishes. This is a place to mingle with locals, feel the culture, etc.
I also like Miss Sophie (Kungsportsavenyen 5). Very good French-inspired cuisine.
Magnus & Magnus (Magasinsgatan 8) is a classic, having been around for already 15 years. In the summer you can sit outside in their courtyard. Good food, a bar and music, and the atmosphere is always excellent.
Mr. P (Götaplatsen) is also a great choice for dinner. Located right next to the Gothenburg Art Museum, the walls of the restaurant are covered with artwork from the Nordic Art Fürstenberg gallery. The cuisine is Asian-inspired.
What should one definitely do in Göteborg to feel the vibe of the city?
That's hard to say. You know the phenomenon of feeling blind in your own city? I live a mere 200 metres from my restaurant, my favourite store is just around the corner, and my best friend's bar is located nearby in Magasinsgatan. They're all within a 400-metre radius of here. But one thing you should definitely see (especially in the summer), and which hasn't become overdeveloped yet, are the islands. The ferry goes from island to island, and you can travel like that for a long time. In addition, it's not expensive, because you can use the Gothenburg Travel Card for trams, buses and ferries. The only problem is that there's not much to do on the islands; there aren't many restaurants or cafés there. The islands are more for nature-lovers. Göteborg is a port town, and the city is beginning to embrace this side of its identity now, too. Like many cities around the world, Stockholm long ago understood that water is beautiful and it attracts people. There's a canal in Göteborg, but you might not even notice it, because there's nothing else around it. As a tourist, you imagine that Göteborg ought to be by the water...but you probably won't even notice any salt in the air. Right now, it's just the ugly, industrial things near the water. But things are slowly changing.
Where do you head when you have a week of vacation?
I'm a fisherman and a hunter. I never spend my vacations in the city. I'm more of a forest person than a city person.
Where are the best fishing spots around here?
That depends on what you want to catch. There are wonderful spots for sea trout fishing throughout the Göteborg area. The salmon runs well here and there, too. In addition, you don't even always need a boat; you can fish well from shore, too. On this topic, the locals are always happy to give advice!
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