Insider: Saliha Yavuz
Istanbul makes you alive
Saliha Yavuz is one of the founders of GriZine, Turkey's contemporary arts portal. Last year she and a like-minded group of people began a new initiative called ArtWalkIstanbul (www.artwalkistanbul.com), which offers art and design fans four informative and inspiring walking tours of neighbourhoods that are home to Istanbul's currently most exciting art and design galleries. Yavuz has an education in art management, has worked at Istanbul Modern and has also lived in New York City for a year and a half, so it is natural that she leads most of the tours herself. "The art scene here has changed immensely since 2010, when Istanbul was a European Capital of Culture. There are now about 60 art galleries in Istanbul. But due to the size and sometimes complicated layout of the city, they are not always easy to find. That's why we began this project."
Which neighbourhood is currently the epicentre of Istanbul's art scene?
Just a few years ago most of Istanbul's art galleries were located in Taksim and Nişantaşı. Then some of them moved to Tophane, the home of Istanbul Modern. But Tophane was still a very conservative neighbourhood at that time, and many of the galleries there were attacked on the opening day of exhibitions in 2010. Windows were broken and several people were hospitalised for exposure to pepper spray. The alcohol served at the exhibition opening events supposedly provoked the locals. Several galleries moved to nearby Karaköy district after this incident. Just two or three years ago there was nothing in Karaköy, but now it has at least 13 art galleries. And not just art galleries, but also restaurants, bars and cafés. You could say that the arrival of art galleries has in large part changed the feel of the whole district.
What are the five most exciting galleries in Istanbul right now?
Elipsis (Karaköy), which always has good photo exhibitions. The Empire Project (Karaköy), which focuses on all the regions historically associated with Istanbul. Galeri Nev, which is one of Turkey's oldest art galleries, having opened in 1984 in Ankara. Its Istanbul affiliate is located in the Misir Apartment Building in Beyoğlu district. Galeri Nev represents significant, established Turkish artists. Two other great galleries are Galerist (Pera) and Pi Artworks (Misir Apartment Building), which recently opened an affiliate in London.
Where should someone interested in design visit?
Aponia has beautifully designed t-shirts, and the whole design and concept of the shop belongs to its owner, Fatih Dağlı, who previously worked in advertising and as a tour guide.
Kağıthane, or House of Paper, has beautiful designs mostly made of paper or inspired by the texture of paper or the shape paper can take. The stores present the work of many different designers.
Milk Gallery & Design Shop. It's both a gallery and design shop, and it's nice to see both in one place.
Building - not only ecstatic but also effective! That's what I love. The raw interior of Building is packed with up-and-coming Turkish designer wares: clothes, accessories, jewellery, etc.
Hane78. Everything in their collection is made of wood and the designs are ingeniously simple.
Why do you like living in Istanbul?
I love this city. This is also where my friends and family are. All sorts of people live in Istanbul -- people with varying levels of education and a great variety of skills. And they are all together here. I live on the Asian side and take the ferry to the European side every day, but the skyline of Istanbul still fascinates me. I often read a book or emails on the ferry, but when I raise my eyes I always notice something new....
Is there anything you hate about Istanbul?
The traffic jams. And sometimes the police. I'm not that familiar with European cities but, compared to New York City, Istanbul has hardly any opportunities for free recreation. In New York City, for example, you can go to a park and just sit and listen to wonderful music. There are hardly any parks or benches to just sit in Istanbul. It's also quite difficult to be a woman in Turkey. For example, I cannot go out in the evening and just sit by the sea. Of course, I can physically sit down, but most likely someone will be watching me, checking on me.... And that's one of the things I hate. But at the same time, this city has an unbelievable amount of energy. It drives you crazy. And -- maybe more than any other city -- it makes you feel alive. That's why I love Istanbul.
How would you describe the people of Istanbul?
That's difficult. Istanbul is huge. I live in Kadıköy, which has a completely different feel from other parts of the city. People here are mostly very relaxed; the bars and nightclubs already close at two in the morning. Everything is quiet and calm; the sea is nearby and so are the parks. This area does not have the crowds that Taksim has. I used to live in another part of the Asian side of the city, and that was completely different, too. It's impossible to describe the character of Istanbul's people. The city is a big mix of people. Historically, a great variety of cultures have existed here side by side, and that's still the case. There are a lot of immigrants from the East here as well as from other parts of the world. In a way, Istanbul is a bit schizophrenic.
If someone has only three days in Istanbul, what would you suggest to do to get a feel for the city?
Three days is very little time for Istanbul. I think one should definitely see the Grand Bazaar and Hagia Sophia. I like those places myself. They are magical places and I visit them at least three times a year. I always tell my friends to experience something of the local life. On the Asian side that means the small cafés and coffee shops in Kadıköy. In addition, it's always great to spend a few hours by the sea. And, of course, Karaköy, which is Istanbul's "must-be" place at the moment. It's definitely worth having dinner at Safa Meyhanesi, which is one of the oldest meyhanes (a cafe or bar that serves alcohol and meze - Ed.) in Istanbul and has been owned by the same family for over 130 years. Or, have dinner at Giritli, a fish restaurant that is held in high esteem by the locals. The restaurant serves cold appetisers from various regions of Turkey, and it also has a beautiful garden. It's definitely worth trying some of the fish dishes and, of course, the rakia.
What are the currently most popular restaurants/cafés in Istanbul among the art scene?
Delicatessen (Nişantaşı) serves both Turkish and international cuisine, and it has over a thousand bottles of wine in its wine cellar. Young intellectuals most often go to Karabatak coffeehouse (Karaköy), which is located in an old warehouse. Karabatak has vintage Meinl posters on the walls, and the name of the establishment is inspired by the cormorant, the symbol of Istanbul. Artists and intellectuals also like going to Şimdi Cafe near Istiklal Caddesi, the main artery in Beyoğlu.
It seems everybody in Istanbul has their favourite viewing point. What's yours?
Moda in Kadıköy district. Moda is a small, village-like neighbourhood right by the sea that was once an Armenian and Greek neighbourhood. The whole waterfront is just tables and chairs. Although it does get crowded in the summer, you're nevertheless sure to find a place to sit. They only serve tea, Turkish coffee and small snacks, but the peace and panorama are fantastic. Here you can just sit, read a book or gaze out on the sea.
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