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Connoisseur's Guide · Europe · spain · Madrid · Top European Restaurants by Martins Ritins

Pandelujo

Author: Mārtiņš Rītiņš0 COMMENTS

Pandelujo

A wonderful aesthetic (the interior) and gastronomic (the food) treat at the same time. The light-toned Pandelujo design is rich in glass, from the walls of the dining hall (offering a view of a small pool) to ceiling details and shelves of wine bottles. There is no lack of glass in the restrooms, either, which makes your visit to the loo somewhat peculiar and nervous. A slightly romantic ambience can be enjoyed only in the smaller of the dining halls: the large one is buzzing like a beehive - which actually makes the meal all the more pleasant.
Service is just as easy and fluent as the background music. Guests find themselves constantly attended by the waiter and can be sure that their wellbeing and comfort is being considered all the time. Upon arrival they are greeted with thin slices of cured jamón ibérico or ham of the Spanish black pig as well as razor clams served in plastic imitations of tins. There is a wide choice of various goose liver dishes, including pâtés, but the one starter served in the most authentic fashion is scallops: they are eaten off a half of a lime, and very little of the acid taste of the fruit is actually felt this way. The head chef has given much thought to the vegetables, covered in gelled "cap" of mashed chico beans; the whole dish is then covered in appetizingly fragrant and delicious broth.
Next the menu goes on to tempt with the belly of a fresh-salted, fatty, meaty and extremely tender tuna with ostrich egg yolk and other finest combinations of food and wine.
A small kitchen window is the only means of getting a glimpse of and admiring the chefs' work, and for this reason the ceremony of serving the dessert seems all the more impressive: in a cloud of vapour the grandmaster of gastronomy uses liquid nitrogen to prepare chocolate mousse right in the dining hall, in front of your very eyes. Watching this performance makes your mouth water. Even the process of settling the bill has been given much thought - as a souvenir and an invitation to come again guests are given small boxes with little pieces of oak wine barrels, soaked with the wonderful aroma of the royal liquid it used to hold.
The restaurant is very popular among the locals and foreign tourists - advance booking is advisable. A slightly formal way of dressing will be best suited for a visit to Pandelujo.

Calle Jorge Juan 20, MADRID 28006
Phone: 91 436 11 00
E-mail: pandelujo@pandelujo.es

www.pandelujo.es

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